
I would prefer to keep my images consolidated on one HDD, using external HDDs only for backups. (I have two 2 TB backup drives and a 500 GB traveling minidrive).
#FLIXTOOLS MAC FULL#
I have considered two relatively inexpensive options to get more space onto the MBP and also to get a little more speed out of the machine over and above the speed generated simply by having more free disc space (I am at 440 GB full of 500 GB total).ġ. Decent sized SSD (480 GB?) in main bay as the boot/programs/computational space drive.

Move current HDD and all photo files to the optical bay, move the optical drive (SuperDrive) out and use as an external for the few times I load programs via CD. Bigger SSD gives some growing space for photo files to spill over from the HDD.Ģ.
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Get a very large (1 TB or more) HDD with onboard SSD buffer, and install in main bay. Keep current HDD as an external back up drive. I am less clear on the details about what sort of HDD/SSD hybrid would work on my MBP v.6.2. Suggestions? I am completely clueless about modifying laptops, I have only fiddled with desktop boxes, and not too much there.Ģ. I've used the Samsung 840 Pro, Crucial C300 (not recommended any longer, but it was hot in it's day), Vertex 3 and 4, Intel 510, 520, 530, and others with Mac's.
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The OCZ Vertex and Vertex 150 are too new to know for sure, but I wouldn't expect issues of compatibility.Ĭompatibility with files in another issue, this is where you'd have problems IF you didn't delete any partition the disk came with, made a new one, and formatted it with the Mac OS. Typically hard drives come unpartitioned and ready to format in any system. in contrast external drives often come formatted for PC/Mac out of convenience, but either one can be wiped clean and formatted for the other. You might run into compatibility issues where the thickness of the drive is concerned. I think you're safe with 7mm and 9mm drives with any modern Mac product, though I tend to really like the 7mm drives (all I recommended are 7mm) when adding a second drive to a Mini with an OWC kit. Because SSD's use less power they'll run cooler and your battery will last longer.
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In some cases like when watching a movie from a HDD. The more your program accesses the drive, the longer your battery will last over a mechanical HDD. and movies/video access the drive continuously.Ĥ. Any mechanical driive that's been in use over 3-4 years should really be replaced if you depend on that drive for work or backing up files. I use these small mobile drives for one of my annual backups. Everything I created or worked on in 2013 will go on a 300gb drive (light year) I picked up for I think $29. I'll write the data twice, put it back in it's static free bag, and it goes in a fireproof safe offsite. I figure the small cubic safe I bought just for storage will last an entire career. And if the format is every threatened I'll invest in replacement media and make the transfers. People tend to think of mechanical hard drives as devices that last forever. They shouldn't instead consider them disposable with a 3 year usage life. I am old enough to remember : For years people used glossy screens for color critical work. People at the business side used glossy screens too, and buy those anti reflective panels ( ). When the LCD appear people insisted on staying with the CRTs because of gamma and other characteristics. The fact that the CRTs were glossy was not an issue. Professionals were controlling the workplace light, so reflection was just something control for. The medium was print on those days and doing critical color in a randomly illuminated room was not an option. Price for proper lighting was not an issue either, as the computer was a godsend in terms of production costs. LCDs were popularized by laptops, that are used outside.
